A destination guide · Santa Ana
Lake Coatepeque
A blue caldera lake under three volcanoes.
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Coatepeque is a flooded caldera about eight kilometres across, and the colour of the water changes through the year from deep blue to an improbable turquoise when the algae turn over. Nobody has fully explained it and the locals have stopped being surprised.
The day-pass system
Most of the shoreline is private. If you are not staying overnight you pay a hotel $10–25 for the day, which gets you their dock, pool and a lounger, and usually comes off your food bill. Torremolinos is the standard answer.
Do it after the volcano
The classic pairing: Santa Ana in the morning, down the hill, in the water by three. It is the best-constructed day in El Salvador and almost nobody plans it that way round.
§01 — Practical
The essentials.
Best time to visit
Any dry month. The water sits around 26°C all year.
01
Things to do
- Swim, which is the reason to come and needs no further justification
- Kayak to the far shore before the afternoon wind gets up
- A day pass at a lakefront hotel if you are not staying the night
- Sunrise from the mirador on the road down, with all three volcanoes in frame
- Pair it with Santa Ana volcano, thirty minutes up the hill
02
Where to stay
- CardedeuDesign hotel on the water with a serious kitchen. The splurge.$180–280
- Hotel TorremolinosOlder, cheaper, direct lake access and a pool.$60–95
- Captain Morgan HostelBackpacker spot with a dock and kayaks. Loud on weekends.$15–40
03
Where to eat
- Cardedeu restaurantThe best food on the lake by a distance. Book for dinner.
- Rancho AlegreFried lake fish on a deck over the water. Very Salvadoran Sunday.
- The road-side comedoresPupusas on the descent, two dollars, better than any hotel breakfast.
§02 — On the ground
A short itinerary
- 01Day 1Down to the waterArrive by noon, swim, kayak at four, dinner on a deck.
- 02Day 2Volcano and backEarly start for Santa Ana, back down to the lake for the afternoon swim.
§03 — Districts
Where to point your feet.
01
The north shore
Most hotels and restaurants. Where the road brings you.
02
The far shore
Private houses, reachable by kayak. Quiet water.
03
The mirador
On the road down from the highway. Stop here first.
04
Cerro Verde side
The road up towards Santa Ana volcano. Cloud forest.
